The occasion was Restaurant Week night 3 and my company for the night was Lou, Tim and Jeff. Despite the beating Darlington House took in the Washington Post a couple of years ago, it has long been on my list for its quaint curb appeal in its prime location in Dupont.
The row-house-cum-restaurant, formerly DC staple Childe Harold (named for a Byron poem), had long been vacant until Darlington moved in.
We were ambitiously greeted in the entryway by modern light fixtures juxtaposed with period federal style ornamental inlayed woodwork with a rich brown and stark white color scheme. The design of the place was gorgeous and carried throughout the restaurant. Our table next to the inoperable fireplace allowed me to admire the stainless steel tilework and the cold night made me long for a fire there.
But that was the only negative I could find. I emphatically disagree with the thought that this restaurant doesn’t deliver as written by Washington Post Food Critic Tom Sietsema in Sept 2008 and think he should consider another trip soon.
I would describe the food as classic Milanase with no real embellishments. It isn’t infused and encrusted. It isn’t a modern interpretation of classic dishes – it’s just simple northern Italian food done well.
For starters I had the Italian cotecchino sausage over braised lentils. The thinly sliced sausage had a mild flavor with a hint of perhaps clove? It was almost like a meat cookie. Coupled with the rather large lentils, I was pleasantly impressed by this well-executed dish.
My main course was the stracotto in Barolo, which is braised beef in a Barolo wine and vegetable reduction served over polenta. The meat was tender and doused with a plentiful reduction with a strong wine flavor. The polenta added a pleasant texture to an otherwise saucy dish. While very flavorful, I was happy for the cracked pepper to give the dish a little more kick.
The desert was tiramisu della casa, which was light, room temperature and exactly how a good, authentic tiramisu should be.
Our bottle of wine was a Sangiovese from Tuscany that was smooth, dry and hearty off of an adequately large list.
Many of the write-in critiques online of this restaurant were very negative of the service, making me wonder if I had dined at the same place. I found the service impeccable. Our waiter was Johnny-on-the-spot when we needed something before we realized we even needed it, and he allowed us to linger without offering the check until we all decided we wanted to continue the evening with an aperitif. He even called our car out of valet while we still sat at the table minimizing the wait outside. Even the busboys were constantly buzzing, yet invisible: lifting dirty dishes and filling water and wine glasses.
Overall, I give the décor, service and attention to detail in all things high marks. While I have nothing negative to say about the food, it didn’t blow me away or create any sort of desire to return in short haste, but it was a delicious meal I thoroughly enjoyed.
Perhaps next time I will allow the chef to create a special meal for me.
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