Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Rosa Mexicano (Chinatown)

With an event at the Harmon Center on a Tuesday night, I chose Rosa Mexicano on the other end of the block in Chinatown for its convenience, not its guacamole that everybody brags about. Having never been there, I decided it was time to give in. You see, I have an automatic gag reflex for any restaurant that is a chain and with Rosa's expansion to National Harbor, two locations in the D.C. metro area added to their 7 others around the nation reduced their status in my mind from that of upscale chains who get a pass for their ability to deliver gourmet to something just north of Applebees status. This fact, added to the idea of paying $25 for a chalupa when I can get out of a night at Guapos for under $15 (unless I go crazy with some 'ritas) -- I have therefore purposely avoided Rosa Mexicano until now. This particular Tuesday night brought with it the pungent stench and the street blockage of a horse show at the Verizon Center directly across the street from Rosa's front door. Thankfully, the horse tents in the street had sides this year, avoiding what was certainly an unfortunate dining experience with horse-ass waiving in your face as the Janeane Garafalo look alike matron explained occurred the year previous with the horse show. There is something unappetizing about eating a "burro-ito" with such a view. Perhaps this is leftover stigma associated from the donkey show in Laredo to which I was once subjected (ah-hem, Chris Randall). As an aside, WTF with a horse show in downtown DC? Are there not more appropriate venues for such an event? Go bother the other Rosa at National Harbor where you don't have to block traffic with your massive trailers and tents. So... with the buzz of the bar as I entered, I somewhat expected Rosa to live up to its reputation as a trendy eatery, but I've clearly come long after this place's prime. I don't think it was just the shitty table we had right in front of the door. The service was mediocre. From the lack of water, to the pushy insistence throughout the evening to order immediately or take our plates while we were clearly still eating, I do not appreciate a restaurant whose goal it is to turn the table instead of satisfy the customer. Now lets talk about the food. The more creative dishes, I will admit, were things I certainly give executive chef James Muir who hails from Buenos Aires some props. The "fusion encrusted and infused" (I know, that term is so two-thousand and late) category of food had two things I really wanted to try: The Pato en Salsa de Zarzamoras (Duck with Blackberry Sauce) is a roasted duck breast served over mashed chile de arbol sweet potatoes, grilled asparagus and blackberry chipotle sauce. The other enticing dish was the Costillas de Cordero (Rack of Lamb), which is a roasted New Zealand rack of lamb, black bean pumpkin tamale, grilled asparagus and pistachio mole. Now, if you know me well enough, you know what my hesitation was. Asparagus? It was with every damn dish there! I don't mind it once in a while. It isn't on my "blechk" food list. But could I please have some variety? I'd have chosen either of these dishes if I had the choice of no asparagus. So... I ended up deciding to compare this restaurant directly with Lauriol Plaza, which has the local appeal for Mexican and doesn't try to be the spectacular restaurant that it is. There, I almost unequivocally get the crab enchiladas, which half the time I have to order off menu. So... as in Forget Paris with Billy Crystal always ordering the veal parmesan... I went with Rosa's version of crab enchiladas, or as they call them, Jaiba. It was two soft corn tortillas filled with jumbo lump crabmeat topped with a creamy tomatillo sauce, melted chihuahua cheese and pumpkin seeds. The waiter assured me the 3 chili peppers next to this dish on the menu were a farce, so for somebody who isn't a fan of the super spicy -- I reluctantly trusted a Mexican's opinion of the heat in this dish. Crazy, I know. Most of the Mexicans I know can eat a hot pepper like its a pickle. The dish was adequate. I don't understand the pumpkin seeds -- they added nothing to the dish, but the tomatillo sauce was some of the best I've ever had. And indeed, while spicier than I'd have preferred, this dish does not rate 3 chilies. Perhaps I am comparing it too much to Thai ratings of spicy. Before dinner, we did order the mild Guacamole en Molcojete. I have no idea what that means, but they make it at your table and it is pretty tasty. My mother's is better though. She adds more lime. I also like the make-it-at-your-table Guac at Cafe Atlantico better. Rosa's was certainly not something I would tell a friend about (OMG Becky, you're going to Rosa? you have GOT to get the Guac, ooh, yummy). But as long as you're there, you might as well get it. You can't miss the kitchen carts with the fixings rolling around the place like they are serving dim sum. I was also in the mood for sangria. We chose the white sangria. Nothing to write home about, and after a pitcher, I'm pretty sure the majority of it was juice versus anything resembling liquor. Perhaps I should have gotten their signature pomegranate margarita instead, but I was recently jaded at Harris Teeter when I saw pomegranate in something totally inappropriate. I can't remember what it was, but my brain wants to say peanut butter. Like the marketing department for this product thinks it'll sell just because pomegranate is the "it" food right now. So I'm boycotting pomegranate despite antioxidants being good for my health. I'll eat more blueberries instead. So, with all of that, I give Rosa Mexicano the big zorbit and will reserve my Mexican cravings for local staples like Lauriol or Guapos. Sorry Rosa! Go cater the suburbanites who frequent national harbor and turn your Chinatown location over to a new "it" place.